Rather than trusting some software I think you are better off learning it yourself if you are serious about it. You get a lot more freedom to do what you want too.
I used to be of the same opinion, that notepad or a notepad clone with syntax highlighting was the only way to go. However for speed a development suite is the way to go.
Like java, I could code a gui in textpad but it would take about 10 minutes. But if I use netbeans I can code that gui in less than 5 seconds, then just have to worry about the functionality.
Use of an IDE doesnt mean you dont learn "properly" or you dont have freedom. If it does its your own fault, and your using it incorrectly.
When I say use dreamweaver I mean use it, not just shove it on design preview and drag pretty things around on the screen. I normally have it in the "split" configuration, allowing me to position things using drag and drop, then write code of my own to augment it.
As for the template site recommendation, unless your a graphics designer at heart or have artistic flair I always find websites are crap. For prettyness let someone else do the job, its what would happen in a full blown design organisation, so I think its good enough for small time faffing.
So yeah, if you really fancy using code only methods (when most of us when using those methods have internet explorer fired up in another window constantly refreshing to check the design. Use something like TextPad (google is ya friend). If you want to use something that will enable you to embrace both aspects of design, use dreamweaver.
