I am currently out the front trying to figure out how to get the lower cambelt cover on a 1.9TD. I have a Brookes workshop manual which casually mentions to just take it off. This little thing is becoming a real big time sink and id like/need to get this all back together by tonight.

Unless i am VERY wrong this wont just lift out with removing the crankshaft pully i.e. the lowest and largest pully which drive x2 belts.

I have come as far as realising i have to remove the power steering drive belt. A trip to the shop to get a rare 9mm allen key sorted that!

Now i am trying to figure out how to get the crankshaft pully off? I have removed the x4 nuts holding it on but it still wont move, do i have to remove the big centre bolt to get this off? If so how do i stop the pully from rotating to do this? Do i even need to remove this pully at all, to get to the lowest timing belt pully and remove the cambelt?

I know a lot of you are at Dub-Freeze but i really need an answer if anyone is at home  ::

Cheers
Steve


[size=24]EDIT: (some pictures to help)[/size]
This is the pully i am trying to remove to get to the lowest cambelt pully (to get the cambelt off) and also remove the lower plastic cover:
             

Do i NEED to remove this pully for a cambelt change? Am i mssing something? and how do i get it off?


Quick picture of the cambelt:

The belt shown in the picture is the old belt.

I cant get the old camblet out without removing this lower cover and possibly the crank/dampener pully. The last timing pully is located behind it. I think i need to stop the pully rotating somehow but it doesnt have a pin like normal.

I am starting to think its a special tool that uses that hole (i labeled above) to clamp the pully to the engine block. None of this was mentioned in the Brooklands Books manual for 1.9TD. It just states to remove upper and lower covers ... grrrr.

EDIT: I just had a brain wave to put it in gear and try!
EDIT 2: The above didnt work and its too tight

Im totally unsure for a Diesel Sorry.

Btw in the last pic what is that program your using?

The 4 bolts should be enough, the pully must just be stuck, the centre bolt will be holding the gear, dont remove it.

The 4 bolts should be enough, the pully must just be stuck, the centre bolt will be holding the gear, dont remove it.

Oh bollox to it then. Ill get the sledge hammer and wood out. I have half convinced myself it is just a flush fit It is a German precision machine after all!

EDIT:
Ok got the outer dampener pully off but it seems I DO have to take the middle nut off to get at it all I will have to go and make this special too and stop the pully rotating somehow whilst i try to undo it  :shock:

Ok didnt need to remove centre bolt - yay. It all came off after some REALLY big hammer blows. Ive taken off stuck brake discs easier than this and dont think it has been done for years.

"Fours bolts unscrewed ... a few blows of hammer ... it comes off"

Cheers
Folks

Ok next question! I woke up this morning and had a think about what ive been doing  :whoops:  So to explain the job better ive been doing my Head Gasket. Not an easy job on a VW Transporter  :!:

Problem #2
I have had the head skimmed and replaced it with a new gasket/bolts but after i tightened the bolts following the exact torque and tighening order explained in the Brookes manual, i realised i never set the bottom crankshaft/dampener to TDC !!! On reflection this might be waaaaaaaaay out. As i was working through the manual, step by step, it never occured to me this might be a problem. It didnt once mention TDC but i can see this being a serious problem as cylinder will hit pistons or worst case it will be impossible to time.
I cant just removed the head again (unless i buy new head bolts/gasket) as they are designed to be replaced once used.

Proposed solution #2
If i turn the crankshaft pully (i.e. bottom pully) slowly by hand it will eventually hit the crankshaft pistons ... as it is not timed up correctly yet. If i then turn the crankshaft (i.e. top pully) slowly by hand, i should in theory, be able to wiggle the to into time.


My question is this ... will i damage the head (i.e. pistons) by doing trying to move top/bottom back into time? The cambelt is still off at the moment.  

I CAN set the bottom crank to TDC via a tiny line drawn on the flywheel,

and

I CAN set the camshaft to TCD by putting a metal bar flat on the end of the head.


  but as they are both weeeeeeeellllll out of timing now (and bolted back) i need to know if turning by hand to get them roughly right again will break stuff. I have a feeling that if i try it will lock up